The leaf form is the earliest shape of the pankha, as recorded in Indian art. These
fans were usually fixed and did not rotate around the handle. They were variously
crafted from plant roots, woven bamboo, cane and sometimes rattan.

References to the ubiquitous semicircular fans appear much later, in miniature
paintings from the 18th century onwards. Natural material was adapted to this
new form – and the pankha was either rigid or rotated on its pivot. Fabric versions
were popular too. These were elaborately decorated with flounce, embroidery,
mirror work or patchwork, reflecting the region in which they were produced.

A Prince in a Pavilion Surrounded by Ladies, Mughal, Circa 1620 – 1640  click to zoom in

In the displayed miniature, one female attendant holds a fly whisk while the other fans the prince with a leaf-shaped pankha made from peacock feathers.
The word pankha - as indicated in the introductory text - is derived from pankh meaning 'bird's wings'. Based on this etymology, some historians suggest that fans made from palm fronds share their antiquity with plumed fans.
 

Madhavnala and Kamakandala, A wandering Yogi Faints before a Princess, Mughal, c. 1710 - 1720 click to zoom in

Painted by artist Dalchand, the miniature narrates an episode from the love story
of Madhavanala and Kamakandala. In the depicted scene, Madhavanala, disguised
as a wandering musician, has fainted upon catching glimpse of his beautful lover
and female attendants are busy trying to revive him. One of them fans him with a
pankha that seems to be crafted from gold and finished with a fabric flounce.
Since the blade shows no looped joint, in all likelihood, it may have rotated to a
limited degree, being fixed to its pivot.
 
 

Fabric Fan with Double Handle COMPANY: Unknown YEAR: Unknown

The displayed fan is crafted from rich fabric and finished with intricate
embroidery. The blade has been given slight padding to lend it weight that allows
for a stronger draft. The pankha is unique because of its double handles - while
one is used as a handle, the other works as a pivot, allowing for easier rotation.
 

Woven Bamboo Fan COMPANY: Unknown YEAR: Unknown

The blade of the displayed fan is crafted from woven bamboo. The attention to detail
speaks of keen craftsmanship. For instance: slight perforations that allow for a
gentler breeze, are worked into a symmetric pattern, at once furthering the fan’s
functionality and beauty. Though the material is a humble one, the finish and the
carved silver handle suggest that the pankha belonged to a well-to-do patron.